Day one: morning
Paphos is a good place to start your explorations of the island. If time is of the essence head straight for the harbour area. Here, the Kato Pafos Archaeological Park is dominated by its mosaics that depict scenes from Greek mythology, considered by Unesco to be among the finest in the world. Close by is the medieval fort – look for the short flight of steps inside leading to the roof for a breezy view of the seafront.
Next, follow the signs for Agia Kyriaki and St Paul’s Pillar where the apostle Paul is said to have taught the Christian gospel to the people of Cyprus in 45AD. On the short walk you will pass Hondros, which is one of the oldest traditional tavernas in Paphos and a good place to take a coffee break.
Tombs of the Kings where Hellenistic dignitaries were buried in underground tombs is easy to reach by car or bus in a few minutes and considered a must-do sight of Paphos. For lunch try Muse. Its chicken souvlaki marinated in yoghurt is heavenly.
Afternoon
Follow the signs for Limassol (spelled locally as Lemesos) on an easy drive along the highway. Look out for views of the Troodos Mountains on the way to the ancient city kingdom of Curium (also spelt Kourion). Here, you can see mosaics, the remains of an agora and cathedral, and an ancient theatre where operatic performances are often held.
Limassol is a trendy sort of place and nowadays tends to radiate around its new, shiny marina where you can gaze at yachts and sip on a local wine – Limassol is famed for its wines – or shop in its designer outlets. A walk along its lengthy, palm tree-fringed seafront is a must.
Day two: morning
As you make your way out of Limassol on the coast road you’ll catch sight of the archaeological site of Amathus (often spelt Amathous). This ancient city-kingdom dates way back to before 300BC and, although today quite a small site, it is worthy of a quick stop.
Next, head to Choirokoitia where you can see the reconstructed circular homes where the Cypriot people of Neolithic times would have lived. The village of Lefkara is famous for its intricate handmade lace, known as lefkaritika, and makes an ideal coffee stop – The Agora Hotel’s freddo espresso is recommended – before heading to the capital of Cyprus, Nicosia.
The city is one of the last remaining divided cities in the world as a result of the Turkish invasion in 1974. Venetian walls dominate the city; visit the Archbishop’s Palace and its museum containing an extraordinary collection of Byzantine icons. The neighbouring St John’s Cathedral is famed for its colourful frescos depicting scenes from the Bible. For lunch, try Pantopoleio Kali Orexi for a treat of pseftokeftedes meatballs flavoured with feta cheese and oregano.
Afternoon
Head over the Green Line to visit Kyrenia (locally Girne) or Bellapais in north Cyprus, or make your way back south to Larnaca (Larnaka). This bustling coastal resort is a relatively short drive away, taking you past rolling Cypriot countryside. Look out for Stavrovouni Monastery perched high on a hill. In Larnaca, you can visit the picturesque 9th century church of Saint Lazaros, which is famous for being built over the tomb of biblical figure Lazarus of Bethany. A short stroll away find Foinikoudas beach. Don’t miss the opportunity to walk along this attractive stretch of beach lined with palm trees.
Evening
Enjoy some authentic local dishes as part of a mezze at To Kazani. A wide selection of small plates will be brought to your table and might comprise koupepia (stuffed vine leaves), kleftiko (slow cooked lamb) or souvlaki (skewered chicken).
Insider Tips
City hack
The museums and archaeological sites are all operated by the government’s tourist board and, as such, are inexpensive. The Kato Pafos Archaeological in Paphos for example, despite being an Unesco World Heritage site, is just €4.50 admission, or €7 to include the Tombs of the Kings.
Attractions
If you are planning to spend a day exploring Nicosia within its mighty walls it is best to leave your car in the parking areas outside. The most central car park is at the Tripoli Bastion, just south of Paphos Gate. The network of small streets and buildings within the walled city are best explored on foot.
Neighbourhood watch
Ledra Street in Nicosia is something of a magnet for shopping enthusiasts. This long street is lined with shops. However, perhaps its biggest draw, is its lookout platform. Ascend to the 11th floor of the Shacolas Building for a panoramic view of the walled city.
Did you know?
There are no less than ten ancient painted churches in the Troodos Mountains housing some of the world’s finest examples of Byzantine religious art. They are protected by their Unesco World Heritage status and many have been restored. Tourist offices may be able to contact the churches’ caretakers ahead of your visit to ensure they are open.
Hotels
While most of the hotels in Cyprus are on the resorts’ seafronts or within a short walk of the beach, don’t be afraid of booking one that is off the beaten track. Look at the Akamas Peninsula near Polis Chrysochous in the west, the Troodos Mountains or the Cape Greco Peninsula near Agia Napa (locally spelled Ayia Napa) in the east for a nature-inspired holiday.
Where to stay
Luxury living
Hotels may vie for being the island’s best, but the Anassa always comes out on top. Given its tranquil location on the fringes of Cyprus’s Akamas national park, and luxury amenities like a seriously opulent spa and gourmet cuisine, it is easy to see why. Hidden behind mature greenery, this whitewashed, tiered, multi-award-winning hotel gently cascades down to the sandy beach of Chrysochou Bay – its waters are close enough for a swim before breakfast. It is an effortlessly elegant sort of place, refined without being showy.
When to go
If you want nothing more than to feel warm sand between your toes, swim and enjoy water sports, visit in July and August when average daytime temperatures will exceed 31°C. Spring and autumn are cooler, and are ideal if you plan to explore the island. Winter months can be tricky with warm, sunny days that turn mighty chilly as soon as the sun goes down. Rain is also most likely in winter.
How to get there and how to get around
Short haul flights depart from most UK airports to Larnaka (Larnaca) International Airport and Pafos (Paphos) International Airport daily. Airport transfer buses connect all towns to both airports and taxis are readily available (taxi meters are obligatory). Motorways are clearly signposted if hiring a car at either airport. Alternatively, a ferry links Greece with Cyprus. Getting around is straightforward by car or by bus.
Click here to read the article in The Telegraph.